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I bought these brand new but thought the internal rim width was 25mm (I planned to mount 30mm tires). I can return them but the cost of shipping back to Australia is prohibitive (plus dealing with customs is a hassle). I'm hoping to sell these at a discount to recoup some of the cost (they retail for $1,699) so that I can get the correct set.

I have had several Caden wheelsets and they are nothing short of amazing (especially for the price). They aren't as well known in America but they sponsor several Australian race teams.

These specific wheels can be used for road and gravel and are insanely light (1,322g!) for their build. The specifics are as follows: \

• Ratchet hub (similar to DT Swiss)\
• Cartridge bearings\
• Shimano HG 11/12 hub\
• Hooked carbon tubeless rims 29.4mm internal, 37 external, 50 deep (my caliper actually says 50.5)\
• Bladed aero steel spokes 2:1 (18f, 21r)\
• Reinforced spoke nipples\
• Centerlock disc rotor mounts

They're brand new in box.

If you haven't heard of Caden I highly recommend looking them up (https://carbonbikewheels.com.au/). These are their 50mm deep model. Specifically, it is their higher end "Decadence" model.

I was a little concerned about the spoke count for gravel and spoke to the owner (Ben, great guy) directly and he reassured me that the build is as strong (or stronger) than a 24/28:

"The 24h/28h one to one ratio spoke pattern (has only 50% loading on all the non drive/non disc spokes) holds the exact same kgf loading as 18h/21h because two to one ratio shares the spoke loading evenly (18h 2:1 holds the exact same combined tension number of 24h 1:1 because 12h of threse spokes only run at 50% tension). The 24h/28h ono to one ratio wheels would break spokes on the partially loaded non drive spokes more than the fully loaded drive side as unloaded spokes flex and break over time compared to stable loaded spokes like my even 2:1 ratio pattern. The other key difference is the 3 axis offset drilling in the rim offset/angle/canting which keeps the nipple in a straight line with the spoke to the flange. Most wheels are lazily center drilled which is the #1 cause of spoke failure at final thread and totally avoided by not sheer loading it there. I also face the nipple seat holes internally to match this line."

So these are ideal for gravel racing, I just wish that I had bought the right size! They should be able to take tires 35mm and up (although I would defer to ETRTO standards for tubeless safety).

Let me know if you have any questions!